Informationen zu sweetpoison

Yes, Entf  is delete (or del) on English keyboard. Before going for brute fore, make sure you actually need that method. Power the computer while fast press (many times) delete key (or F* key) or just hold the key. For finding which F key you need you might try folding F1, F2, F3 and F4 at once, if nothing good comes out, reboot computer and try next block F5-F8.  Only if not F key or Delete key is working you can go for battery.  As for safety precaution, DISCONNECT computer (remove the power cord). Even powered down you still have power on MB and a lot of bad things can happen so to be on safe side remove the power cord.  With a tweezers you should be able to squeeze the grip that holds the battery and the battery will just pop out.  If you don't have enough space, yes, removing the video card will do the trick (be careful on that part to not physically damage the MB or video card).  Just remember, all the battery remove, power button held and battery placed back are done while power cord is removed (pressing the power button helps to discharge all capacitors that might have some "juice" left).   General note When going inside computer you have 3 mandatory conditions: "What, Why and How" you do it. It sounds like cheap corporates propaganda but missing one condition (any) can result in damage.   ... Mehr anzeigen

As "brute force" to gain access to bios is removing the battery from MB (and hold start button for about 5 sec than put battery back). Everything have to be done while  computer is disconnected from main power system. Removing the battery will force bios in default/recover state and ask you to make the proper adjustments for date/time and other stuff. Also will say which key to press to gain access for that. As for HDD settings... well there are 2 major protocols UEFI and LEGACY so it's kind of try thing to see which one is the right for your machine. That's usually stored in "advanced" settings HDD mode or Storage Mode. Additional you should be able to see an option for USB drive mode (legacy/uefi) where only one mode will work properly with your USB drive. While you are under bios interface see which key is for boot manager (an information which comes in handy from time to time).   I assume before formatting you saved your data? If so, let windows set as it wants to and once is installed you can adjust the partition size. So id windows install detects more partisions and ask which one to use select "C ONLY". Manual set is not recommended. ... Mehr anzeigen

It's been some time since I saw a bios with "delete" key access. Most of the new machines responds to F keys (like F2, F10 or F12). Even back in the good old days F8 was also responding as choose for del key. Unable to install might be a result of resetting HDD mode to an incompatible mode but to fix that you need to get to Bios/uefi.  As for windows license (assuming the computer come with preinstalled OS), that is stored on HDD, microsoft account  and BIOS/uefi so any fresh install using same account and same windows edition will validate the licence.   Oh, and welcome to the forum @DomF1989  ... Mehr anzeigen

Hi   @Shal3R As I notice for the last years there's like a policy to set routers for minimal signal strength (in 2012 a router was broadcasting up to 100m wile now  can barely cover 10m) I always set the wi-fi card to most aggressive roaming mode. Try and see if is any difference.   Cheers   ... Mehr anzeigen

Welcome to the forum @Kakashi008    Building a computer is not as easy as youtube makes you think so. My advice, if you never did that before let some one else to do it for you. Aside hardware assemble there is a matter of software configuration and maintenance which involves a basic knowledge at least in order to get max performance and stability. Another aspect is choosing the components where experience matters. If I am to build a PC for myself I would go for a intel i7 (or i9 depending on the price) 10th or 11th generation, 2x8 GB DDR with acceptable low latency (15 CAS or lower) working in dual channel mode, a video card GTX 1080Ti or 1070Ti (RTX are somehow not yet optimized and most of the time creates problems in terms of performances), primary storage for windows 10 a M2 NVMe 256 gb where it sits nothing else except OS, secondary storage an M2 SATA 1Tb or bigger (in time can be added more SATA3 SSD if needed), all those sitting on a motherboard with intel chipset from Asrock (any that supports at least 32 Gb ram would do). The last and important just like any other component is the power supply. Target one that provide at least 1000W and if possible not LED on fans. Later on, based on testing, some additional fans installed on the case to assure a good airflow. Anyway, there's a lot to talk about this.   Cheers ... Mehr anzeigen

Try changing service from automatic to manual, apply settings then stop the service, clear the log and see if it starts again. If it does it means one device is not working properly (most likely a driver conflict) ... Mehr anzeigen

Welcome to the forum @gustavhoo    Without looking on computer specs there's a general fact when it comes about XMP. If your CPU does not support overclock XMP should not be seen or disabled to avoid any problems (in most of the cases computer lock down/ shut down in less then 10 sec after powering up). Missing the option in non overclock CPU is a safeguard based on "better safe than sorry".  The memory frequency is dictated by CPU model and type and works as it should. Any modifications without adjusting/overclocking CPU will result in (maybe) performance increase and loss in overall stability.    I hope that helps   Cheers ... Mehr anzeigen

Welcome to the forum @Ioofsoo    It will helps to locate the problem. Clear the logs, reboot computer and check again. See the most recent WHEA warning and locate ProcessID, see what PID results in warning. To locate the PID do a search in Task Manager in "Process", "Details" and "Services" tabs. That would give you a clue about what driver or app creates problems.   Something similar was a main topic of this https://community.medion.com/t5/ERAZER-Gaming/Thousands-of-event-log-Warnings-from-source-WHEA-Logger-Event-ID/m-p/103589#M864 Although I'm sure its a different hardware component involved maybe it helps to have a look there as well.   Cheers.  ... Mehr anzeigen

Welcome to the forum @keiji   In device manage doubleclick on the specific driver you want to alter and in "driver" tab you find the buttons to do that. sample   A word of advice, when you decide to "work" on device manager you need to know 3 things: what, how and why you want to edit. As a general rule is to know how to repair in case something goes wrong.   Cheers       ... Mehr anzeigen

Sorry, I don't have.  On medion.com after register your product, you can find a phone number in "contact" tab.   Sorry if I can't provide more help. ... Mehr anzeigen

Thanks for info share, I have now a clear picture about what is going on. As side note, the screen refresh rate is dictate by the screen type and have low impact on temperatures except the games which have set V-Sync ON. All I can recommend is to use a balanced power plan under windows, that will reduce the CPU load while under youtube or other video website since both chrome and edge use hardware acceleration when available (on power save mode for web browning only CPU is on use). Same improvement might be notice in gaming as well.  About stuttering while GPU/CPU gets above 90°C, yes that is the thermal protection kicking in.  At any case, if balanced power plan does nothing I think you should consider calling for Medion technical help while under warranty. If a game with capped FPS (from nvidia CP) at 60 still gets the CPU and/or CPU at >90°C is better to solve the problem before it gets worse (because it will get worse).  As for voltage control from experience I can say it only makes things worse by making the system unstable or lowering the performances too much to make this as valid solution.  Try to contact Medion technical support and see what are the options. I hope you will solve the problem soon.   Cheers ... Mehr anzeigen

Hi @Bindlestiff , welcome to the forum   Some additional info might help locate the problem  ( info like the temperature of CPU/GPU on idle desktop mode and fan noise, same during gaming, stuttering if happens in gaming, power management plan used by windows).   Although I own a different laptop model I can say a temperature of CPU around 40°C is normal on windows start and lowering to about 30°C on idle Also fan noise dropping down. All in terms where I have no background programs running except those which are essential for running windows (no tweaks, no monitoring, not even nvidia experience. That's about idle state and desktop mode usage.   For gaming on the other hand I had to customize a lot in order to keep a decent gameplay experience mostly in terms of heat management.  First step was to place the laptop above a cooling pad (helped on temperature control and fan noise). Second and most important was to avoid "punishing the machine" technics. As example, if a game can run at full details at >140 FPS I run it at 30 FPS since I see no difference between 30 FPS and 60FPS or above. In terms of temperatures it means lowering CPU/GPU from 84°C/84°C to 60°C/57°C (I use FPS control under nvidia control panel for that). Still to improve (a lot actually) the image quality I use post process plugins which most of the time add about 7°C to CPU temperature.   Overall, factory lock of voltage, frequency and fan speed are there to protect your machine. A desktop CU makes noise as well unless the airflow management is great and require a low speed fans. But that cannot be apply to laptops where you have all components packed into a 3cm thickness case.    Like I said at the beginning, please provide additional info regarding the issues.     Cheers ... Mehr anzeigen

Hello @acharris_77  and welcome to the forum.    Before starting the investigations do some simple check. In device manager see the wi-fi adaptor and make sure there is no power saving plan. Example (although i'm sure there is not same wi-fi card) Other than that, if you have administrator access to BT router you can try to see if is any power save set there as well. I'm just saying this because I did had lots of problems with BT routers in this settings area.  WI-FI stability test can be run with a big download on Steam as that client have a graphic display of downloading progress.  Still, I suspect a power save issue.   Connection loss could occur as a result of power management plan (on wi-fi card or/and router) while low or no traffic.   Cheers.     ... Mehr anzeigen

Welcome to community @JLedbury    If you have a 2.5" bay empty it's safe to install a SSD there (or HDD for what matters). As for specs, don't worry. Pick any SATA  SSD and plug it. The SATA standards are build with backward compatibility. In other words, if it fits, it works. Pick any SATA3 2.5" SSD according to your budget (try to stay under 4Tb capacity to avoid further complications) and keep in mind that over 80% usage of space affect the performances. Also pick a merchant which allow full refund in case you have any problems (stay away of ebay).   Cheers. ... Mehr anzeigen

Hi, On BIOS (uefi) Advanced => SATA Mode Selection you can try the other settings aside AHCI. https://community.medion.com/t5/ERAZER-Gaming/Erazor-Medion-Notebook-X7851-is-stuck-on-boot-screen/td-p/112921?lightbox-message-images-113314=11343i77B0DF69906A0A03 It should be there a Legacy and SATA mode and maybe a Compatible option. Try one at the time, save and reboot and see if your windows starts. If still nothing good happens set it back to AHCI and you might need to seek professional assistance but be aware, don't let anyone open the laptop unless is certificate by Medion in order to preserve the warranty.    Cheers     ... Mehr anzeigen

Hi   @sybes   It's worth to check Camera privacy settings and make sure your apps can access it.     Cheers   ... Mehr anzeigen

Welcome to the forum  @amby  From your description: Medion logo with a spinning circle is actually windows loading logo (customized) so what happens is related to operating system or HDD mode. What you can do, press F2 while the laptop starts to get to BIOS (uefi) and see on display information (usually on main tab) if what shows match what you suppose to have (CPU, RAM amount, HDD). I know we have different BIOS (uefi) but that's an example for what you suppose to look at   If anything loos a bit off like less RAM or missing HDD drive contact Medion Customer support. Second step, see how the HDD is set. Search for SATA mode option and have a look at the set up AHCI, SATA or Legacy. Remember what option is set and change it. Reboot and see if the windows starts.  Also check the boot order in case you have more than 1 HDD (or SSD) Explanation: from those 3 sets which I mention windows will work only for one set while for the other 2 will act just as you described in original post.  If changing the SATA mode doesn't fix the problem it might be an operating system problem like missing or altered boot partition, missing system files and such. Booting from USB is a bit tricky and involves changing USB mode depending on BIOS (uefi) version. See first how goes with SATA settings.   Cheers ... Mehr anzeigen

Good to know, and congratulations on choosing to upgrade. Windows updates works a lot with processor and RAM in background mode (by default windows allocates low resources for updates and it takes time even on very fast machines) To any case, if you did cloning thing, try to consider resizing the system partition C and create a secondary one for storage. Modern games are coming with lots of files (20,000 or even more than 40,000) and keeping them in same place with windows which also bring from 100,000 to 400,000 files might lose a bit from performances. For example, I have 300,010 files on my C drive (no games nor personal files are stored there) and took 102 sec to read the header for all the files (that counts for search function).   Cheers ... Mehr anzeigen

One thing I learn over the years, Microsoft Windows (any version) is like a maze: you never know when leads you into a trap. Never paid attention to logs except cleaning them from time to time even if there are critical errors logged. Most of them are a result of what I did by disabling useless or annoying services. The only Critical errors worth for attention are BSOD. Luckily W10 reports those without confirmation or approval  from user and those caused by windows updates (like KB500802) are fixed in less than a week. Out of curiosity I just checked the logs on my laptop and discovered lots of critical error logged (Microsoft-Windows-Kernel-EventTracing) and I know for sure I'm responsible for disabling a few processes. And as usual, I cleared the logs without concern. As long as the laptop works fine and doesn't present any random or regular errors I don't care. Also I'll never use again clean up or repairs software - did that once and got my windows FUBAR. I admit the software did the job and the windows was performing better because I had to reinstall it from scratch. Anyway, don't try to fix it if is not broken.   Cheers ... Mehr anzeigen

Hello again, Sorry for double post but I just remember something (optional). A piece of advice, use ProduKey to save windows licence key in case you ever need to start installing windows from scratch. Keep it safe. Usually Windows save the key licence in bios but, better safe than sorry, a back-up can't hurt.   Cheers ... Mehr anzeigen

Hi, The video card is build in mother board so cannot be replaced. The fact that you got BM replaced in the first place (based on described problem - fan noise) makes no sense. Other than that, don't let the matter to cool down, as far as I know there is no such thing as downgrade during warranty. I suspect to be a mistake (humans are known for that) and I'm confident it will be solved in the right way (to get back the laptop you paid for).   Cheers ... Mehr anzeigen

If you read carefully all the post on this thread and the update description you get your answers. extras from update description "This driver accordingly this software improves the overall system stability due to an update of the CPU micro code and is compatible to the following product series... Attention: For any errors, caused by the execution of this update, we don´ t accept any responsibility for damage or lost of data.The customer agrees with that fact by executing the update." In this thread was mentioned that the proper RAM frequency according to CPU is 2133MHz and any attempt to change that will make the system unstable at the best (FUBAR at the worse if something goes wrong with the bios update).  It might not be the information you were hopping but there are accurate.   Other than that, the feeling of new ram being slower can be from high latency (CAS).   Good luck. ... Mehr anzeigen

That was a shoot in the dark as I was thinking of spyware infection for game center exe file. Scrap that.  A quick search on internet for "easy anti cheat game security violation detected" reveals something else. There are a lot of problems caused by that program (easy anti cheat that is).  [Quote] The most common causes of in-game security breaches are either mouse/keyboard errors or certain incompatibility problems with RGB controllers.[/quote] Also lots of suggestions about how to fix the problem regarding the specific code #0000000d The most basic (and easy to do) fix: Close the lighting control software. In task manager, locate the exe file which control the light (Lightservices.exe, SelLedV2.exe, mycolor2.exe or whatever name have) and kill the task. That would do. Since there are only a few games which use easy anti cheat program I won't go further to suggest how to permanent disable that exe file. Good luck.   ... Mehr anzeigen

Hi, It's worth a try to look at System; Notifications & Actions. If you're lucky the App which does the pop up will be there and can be disabled. Otherwise only the program which does the pop up can cancel that if the option is available. ... Mehr anzeigen

I see, thank you both for information. What happens if Control Center is blocked in firewall? For some reason anti cheat see the program as 3rd party software which interfere with gameplay (like BOT software or communication spyware) and that shouldn't happen if CC stays to local control an execution as it should. So that's what I would do fist if I had this problem. ... Mehr anzeigen

Sorry but I have to ask, what is Gaming Centre? I mean, it's a critical program to manage the games or just a useless part meant to look nice and somehow slow down the games like Nvidia Experience or Windows Gaming?  I'm asking out of curiosity.     ... Mehr anzeigen

Hi @Kagenite , welcome to the community   The problem might be related to "Windows Ease of Access"   Before hunting down PHotkey which might hold the access to different functions take a look on windows settings and disable pretty much everything regarding keyboard ease of access. In one way or another by default those options will interfere with gaming sooner or later (as result of fast keyboard press or hold). If whose settings can't fix the popup problem you have to hunt PHotkey, prevent it from loading with windows and create a shortcut in case you still want to use it when not gaming. See first if windows ease of access solve the problem.   Cheers. ... Mehr anzeigen

@PocketDog  Yeah, that wasn't me providing the manual as I don't have access to such thing (even for my laptop) but that's not important. What @daddle is trying to say is that even your MB supports 2400mhz for memory banks the machine will still set the working frequency at 2133MHz. That is decided by CPU type and model. In order to avoid any kind of problems BIOS (UEFI) will not provide any setting options regarding RAM speed or voltage mostly because any forced change will make the system unstable and unable to start. So no matter what version of bios you will use there is no such thing as setting the RAM speed.   Regarding your problem, upgrading RAM, my recommendation is to see what you already have installed on machine and buy another bank at same specs (frequency and latency). If what you have is single channel RAM and you want to upgrade to dual channel mode you will have to replace the existing module with a pair. Again, try to use same frequency and aim for lowest latency you can get (CAS). Also since you have the manual see which slots are in pair for dual mode (usually is 1-3 and 2-4; also slots might be marked with different color).    Cheers. ... Mehr anzeigen